bits and bobbins

philly, portland, chicago, atlanta, seattle?

philly, portland (OR), chicago, atlanta, seattle?

what can you guys tell me about these cities, as far as urban living goes?

can you live there w/o a car? is the city bike-friendly?

what kind of cultural environment do each of these cities have? the arts, fashion, music?

what’s the average price for a ~1000 sq. ft. loft/2-3 bedroom apartment/townhouse/small home?

or, outside of these cities, are there any other good livable cities in the u.s. you’d recommend?

basically, just trying to do some research!

SF is just too unaffordable for what it is, and a year has been more than enough here.

thanks a bunch, all!

Comments

64 total remarks on this post.

  1. While I haven’t lived in any of them, I have visited a few, and can comment with opinions of those who have lived in them.

    As far as transport goes, I would think Chicago would be the most easily navigated without a car, as they seem to have rather good public transport. They’ve got a great, lively performing & visual arts community, too.

    I’ve been told Atlanta is one big expanse, and nearly impossible to live in without a car. It’s got some great arts life, but it seems a bit under-nourished at times. With your love of layering, Atlanta would have heat and humidity problems, too. (I’m sure you used to them from NYC, but who’d want to move where there’s a bit less winter to balance it out?)

    Austin is supposed to be a really affordable, up and coming arts center. Great live music and arts scene, but still small enough to become active in them. It’s also fairly affordable from what I’ve heard (it’s one of the places I’ve considered moving, and many of my fellow New Orleanians have moved there post-Katrina).

    If the crime weren’t such a problem, I’d recommend New Orleans. I fear the biggest problem you’d have would be with the weather though, as it’s warm very often throughout the year. Because of the storm, housing has gone up considerably, too. But it’s got a rich and vibrant arts life, fashion is intriguing and interesting there.

    I haven’t been to either, but I hear great things from those I know who’ve moved to Portland and Seattle. Seattle seems both car and pedestrian friendly, while I don’t know if Portland is as much.


  2. ashley: yeah, i think besides atlanta, any city in the south is less than desirable for us weather-wise…even if austin or NO (where my husband’s actually originally from) are lovely.

    i loathe sweating.

    NYC was the best…hot and cold but with more than enough amazingness to make up for the shitty parts.


  3. Reppin’ Chicago:
    I’ve lived here for 2 years (an east coast transplant) and I LOVE it. Compared to many other urban areas, rent is really reasonable (and if you’re open-minded/creative/etc, you can find some amazing deals). It’s very neighborhood-y. I have a gorgeous, roomy 2+ br apt in a vintage victorian house and my roommate and I pay $1050/mo total for rent. You can pay much, much more depending on the neighborhood…or much, much less.

    I have yet to own a car. Public Transport (CTA) is undergoing a budget crisis, and people bitch about it being unreliable and whatnot, but it’s pretty decent. They’re doing what they can given their funding woes. I was able to get along fine, but then I got my bike and now I ride everywhere! Oh, and the nice thing about biking in Chicago? The city, by and large, is flat! Great lakefront trails too…
    The arts and music scenes in Chicago are pretty fantastic–great for jazz and blues especially! As for fashion…well…they’re trying. The mayor in particular is making Chicago fashion a priority, trying to nurture local designers, etc. Here’s a link to what they’ve done in the past and what they’re looking to do in the future:
    http://www.fashionfocuschicago.com/

    I could go on and on about why I love Chicago, but those are the highlights.


  4. PDX is awesome in terms of public transportation and bike friendliness. It’s rated as one of the best cities for bicycling in America, and putting your bike on and off the MAX and public busses is a cinch. It’s also fairly cheap to live there. Also, shopping is wonderful and there are many good places to thrift.


  5. PNW check in!
    Seattle is not very friendly to those who don’t have cars. It’s very spread out but the art and music scene are really great! Even having a car is messy as traffic is notoriously bad. Rent is highish, but do-able. I don’t have numbers but craigslist would.
    Portland is f-ing amazing for bike culture and walking. The weather can be somewhat gloomy for much of the year but it is a DIY paradise. Rent is quite reasonable.


  6. I recently read somewhere that Chicago was Manhattan on a Philly budget. I’ve never been to Chicago, so I can’t say, but it intrigued me to hear that.

    Seattle – too crunchy for my taste. I’m an indoors/concrete kind of girl anyway and I felt out of place around all those healthy running/biking/hiking people.

    The only city I have real experience with in your list is Philly – and the only major thing that holds me back from moving there is that you pretty much have to have a car, unless you live AND work in Center City, which from what I am told is very difficult/expensive to do. I visit a friend there very often from my current location in the DC Metro area, which is where I currently live (and also do not recommend in case it ever makes your list). I would still consider Philly if the right job came along for me, though I would make garage parking a personal requirement if I did. Compared to your experiences in NYC and SF you’ll find Philly disgustingly cheap, especially if you’re willing to live in a less-than-desirable location (rowhouses for $50k- yes, $50k). Tons of art and cultural things to do in Philly. It has surprised this born and bred Brooklynite despite her discerning taste many times.

    I would add that it has also been called “the sixth borough” a lot lately and suggest that its proximity to NY might be an added plus for you.

    –Lauren


  7. More Pacific Northwest love from me! Portland is my favorite city to live in, ever! It is quite accessible sans auto and the art-fashion scene is thriving. As far as housing, it is more affordable than SF and Seattle, though prices are on the rise. I bussed-maxxed-streetcarred-biked and walked everywhere for the five years I lived there. Portland has a very friendly vibe. We will move back in two years– it’s just that wonderful.

    Seattle is also tres do-able without a car– if you live in the city proper and coordinate your address with where you’ll be spending time. We rarely use the car and get by quite well. Seattle is much more diverse than Portland and feels more *city*, too. Seattle definitely has a thriving art scene. Seattle is also a touch expensive. Redfin.com is a great way to compare prices. There are still bidding wars and the such, but nothing compared to 3 years ago. You can find deals if you are diligent and don’t mind living in the tougher parts of the city (I manage just fine).

    As far as the gloom-factor goes, I think Seattle and Portland are about the same, though Portland tends to have hotter summers since it is farther inland. good luck!


  8. atlanta. i love it, but there are definitely some who don’t. life without a car there is really hard. i don’t know of any thrift or craft shops near a train station there. well, maybe a michael’s.
    there’s a thriving music scene and a number of galleries. really good bars.
    the living space you are talking about would probably cost you about $800-$1100, i’m guessing. buying property is really affordable (i had a 2000 sq. ft. house in a so-so area there and my mortgage was $941/mo).
    oh and there are tons of good places to eat.

    chicago. i’ve been here for 7 months and i’m ready to leave. it’s nice enough, but not for me. i don’t really get the midwest. the public transportation here is pretty decent, as far as reaching a lot of places, but i miss having a car so much! taking 2 buses to just pick up at something at target is a pain.
    i’ve found a couple of decent bars here, and there is always a good place to have brunch on the weekends. i haven’t found much else in the way of really great restaurants here. there are maybe 2 places that will genuinely miss when i move. not to say that i’ve tried everything and that there aren’t good places, i just haven’t found that much flavor here.
    my roommate and i pay $850/mo for a tiny 2 bedroom apartment that is very close to the train station (which is only 3 stations from downtown). there are some areas that are cheaper and bigger, but further out. i totally agree with whoever said that it is neighborhood-y. little communities all over the place. a lot of people have told me it took them about a year to adjust to living here, but then they love it. and i’ve heard of several people having as hard a time as i have finding jobs here.

    if you have any more specific questions about either of these cities, or if i’ve been vague somehow, let me know. i’m happy to help!


  9. Atlanta is awful, like an even more sprawling version of Orlando.

    Chicago on the other hand, is incredible. Transportation is great… Wicker Park is a fantastic place to live, and it’s notable cheaper then San Fran or NYC.

    I’m interested in Philly myself though… heard it is amazing. Report back!


  10. Hey Tricia! I have lived in Philly for two years, and across the bridge from it for about 25 more, so I can give you a little scoop.
    The rent isn’t the cheapest, though I know it beats SF. 1000 sq ft might run you around $1200-$1500 in the nicer neighborhoods. The areas with the highest artist concentration would be Northern Liberties and Fishtown, though NoLibs is closer to Center City and has a younger, hipper slant. South Philly is great, also, and it’s a little less overtly hipster. You can get whole rowhomes there for $1000 a month (sometimes complete with the South Philly concrete backyard special). Though, to give a little perspective, I live in a huge West Philly apartment and pay $700 a month — there are cheap places out there, for sure.
    It is possible to live without your own car here — PhillyCarShare is similar to ZipCar, I think, and it’s great if you only occasionally need a car for, say, trips to Ikea and Target and such. Very affordable and convenient.
    If you live in the city, it’s also very easy to walk nearly anywhere you need to go. You can walk for 20-30min and cross many a neighborhood.
    We’re big on Craigslist and Housingmaps.com for apartment hunting, if you do decide to check it out.
    We have ArtStar (and their annual Craft Bazaar), tons of galleries, lots of younger residents, great bars, great food, etc.
    Check out phillyblog.com for more scoop on neighborhoods.
    I like Philly — it’s gritty, it could be more charming, but it has a ton of character, and characters, too. It might take a while, but it’ll grow on you.
    Feel free to get in touch if you need/want any more info. Good luck!

    (PS: I second the earlier recommendation for New Orleans, also — it’s the only other place I’ve lived, and I’ve never felt more at home. Fingers crossed it comes back soon.)


  11. you’ve already expressed some disinclination toward austin, but suggesting it as a possibility is the best thing i can think to mention. it’s affordable compared to the bay area, if not compared to some other places. it’s very bike-friendly. the culture is pretty great – a little scenestery at times, but basically an easygoing place where you can always find people doing interesting things. there’s a really decent community of people with small businesses in fashion and crafty goods. rent for a nice 2-bedroom kind of place would generally be around $1000 or a bit more, and cost to buy varies pretty tremendously depending on neighborhood and other factors.

    it is kind of hot for a large part of the year and very very hot for several weeks each summer (like right now). if it helps at all, there are huge portions of the year when it’s really mild and nice.


  12. Portland is very bike-friendly. It is livable without a car as long as you live in the city proper. You can forget getting anywhere without a car in the burbs.

    Housing prices are inflated but not nearly as bad as SF.

    Fashion…they say that Oregonians and Washingtonians will wear jeans to the opera. This is almost true. Broadly speaking there is not much culture of dressing up. This is not to say you won’t find people wearing the most fantastic things–but they’re severely outnumbered by all the people who really cannot be bothered.

    The winter is gloomy as hell, as mentioned above, but the summers can’t be beat.

    Culturally…well, however big Portland gets, it is still a small city, if that makes sense. This is not to say I wouldn’t move back there in a heartbeat, but Seattle or Chicago it ain’t.


  13. Columbus, OH is much smaller than most of those cities, but i enjoy it, I moved here for college and stayed now for 8 years. It has a good art/music scene and the rents are much cheaper. It isnt very freindly without a car, unless you are going to live right down town


  14. Aw, and here I am moving up to SF in a year; I was looking forward to getting up the guts to meet you! Anyhow, I just wanted to add some love for Portland. I got lost there and never once felt scared/unsafe, the architecture and people are amazing, and I have heard nothing but good things from people who have lived and visited there. I agree that it can’t really compete with Seattle as far as the arts/culture scene, but personally I just found it more intimate, and it felt like there was room to breathe; not very rushed (I hope that makes sense). Good luck with your search!


  15. SF will miss you! i haven’t lived in any of those places, but I hear Portland is ridiculously wonderful.


  16. nancy…i like SF and will miss it some…but $3000 for a 2 bedroom is just not affordable, PERIOD. it’s what’s making us leave.


  17. I loathe sweating just as much as you do, and with that in mind, Philly might not be a good option, though the cultural environment there is spectacular. I hear oodles of good things about Seattle and Portland, but Portland would be more affordable (probably the most affordable out of them all). You’ll sweat in Atlanta, no doubt about it, but that’s a given. Chicago is great, but expensive.


  18. I live in Philly and aside from the excruciatingly hot and humid summers (the humid part is the worst!) I totally love it. I recently got rid of my car and while it’s sometimes I pain in the ass it’s not terrible living in Philly without one. The subway is eh, but there are plenty of buses and biking is totally easy/feasible. There aren’t a whole lot of bike lanes, but it’s normally not too bad and the city is mostly flat and relatively small (when you don’t take into account all the outer lying areas that are technically part of the city of Philadelphia but aren’t places you ever really have to go, and regional rail does go there if you had to. There are a good amount of thrift stores all over the city (I know that’s of interest to you!) and a couple blocks of 4th St. is called Fabric Row (because of the abundance of fabric stores). Parts of the city are extremely expensive but South Philadelphia is great (close to an open air farmer’s market, plenty of restaurants, thrift stores, fabric row, an Ikea, Whole Foods, and Target) and really cheap. I live in a 2 bedroom now for a total of 900$ a month between my roommate and I. Some of my friends have a 5 bedroom house that costs them about 1200$ a month! There’s also West Philly which is cheap and nice and full of artsy types (mostly hippies and crust punks). Northern Liberties is the next up-and-coming neighborhood and 2 bedroom apartments there go for about 1500$ a month. It really is a wonderful city with a low cost-of-living, totally worth checking out!


  19. Atlanta is not extremely bike-friendly, though I think it’s getting better (in general) and there are a few pockets of bike-friendliness and bike-friendly-people. The city is huge, expansive, suburbs slowly growing out and into one another like some kind of rash, but for the most part you can ignore them. You could probably live here without a car, but it would be difficult. And the summers are very very hot (100s last week, though that was a heat wave for sure). Rent is much better compared to SF, that’s for sure, though.


  20. I’ve lived in Philly for the past 3 years. (Prior to that, grew up in Ft. Lauderdale, and seven years in Bloomington, Indiana, to give you perspective..)

    It’s a little gritty like someone said before, but I think that is part of it’s charm in a weird way. It’s not trying to be NYC, and it’s certainly not. But we have hilarious stories from this town, and that sometimes makes up for it.

    The public transit is not the best, but it can be doable if you utilize the bus system as well as the trains. I have lived in 2 different apartments in town, both huge 2 bedroom ones, and they’ve ranged from $850 – $1100 with W/D, A/C, D/W and parking spaces. However, I have lived in some of the sketchier areas in order to save some money. There is carshare in town and it seems to be growing and becoming more popular.

    I have lived in the city the entire time, and worked outside of the city (car or train) and in the city. It’s not too bad to get around, although there can be some traffic.

    Pros (in my opinon):
    -Lot of restaurants/bars, including ethnic/cultural cuisines…Filipino, Brazilian, Eritrean (sp?), etc.
    -Quizzo pub games at local bars around town!
    -Centrally located to D.C., the Jersey shore, NYC. It’s easy to get to those places by bus ($20 roundtrip greyhound to NYC) or train.
    -Cost of living is not as bad as NYC or San Fran.
    -Rooting for the Eagles is fun, even if football is not your thing. It seems to bring everyone around here together
    -Decent art scene, better craft scene I think.
    -Museums, Rittenhouse Park, Kelly Drive, Valley Forge, Italian Market, Reading Terminal, etc.
    -You can walk to a lot of places here. It’s a manageable city.

    Cons:
    -Public transit could be better
    -Roads are in bad shape (but getting better), huge potholes and bad drivers = scary biking. But I do know tons of people who bike and are fine. They also have meetups and rides for bikers.
    -Coming from a place that’s pretty diverse (South Florida), I see a lot of prejudices from all types of people I work with. I don’t know if that’s just me, since I’m pretty open minded, but it can be annoying and frustrating. (i.e. Lots of “I”m not being racist/prejudiced BUT….”) I guess you get that anywhere.

    That’s all I can think of for now. I hope that helps! Feel free to email with any questions.

    -Mariss

    P.S. http://ohjoy.blogs.com/my_weblog/ Oh Joy is a blogger living in Philly and she has a lot of good insight.


  21. i know you said earlier in comments that austin is out, but just to say– i’ve heard that austin is notoriously bike un-friendly.

    that said, portland loves bikes! i want to move there so badly, but my partner is sort of vetoing it at the moment.

    i’d recommend richmond to you, but i don’t think it suits you at all and you definitely wouldn’t enjoy it here.

    philly is fun, but from what i can tell their public transport leaves something to be desired.

    i’m voting for chicago! i mean, as if i had any say in where you and pete move, but i’m totally voting for chicago! ;p

    anyway.. i’m with you on the moving. it’s not money that’s motivating me, but an extreme desire to be in motion. i’m feeling a little stagnant. we’ll see.


  22. My husband and I have been living in Portland for almost two years now, and we plan on staying for a very long time. It is extremely bike friendly (practically bike obsessed), and we have a really good public transportation system and my only complaint is that the MAX train doesn’t run all night. We do not have a car and do not plan to buy one anytime soon, everything is easily accessed by walking/bike/transit.

    Another commented that even though Portland is a city, it still retains a smaller city vibe and I really like that about it. Artists of all kind are really supportive of one another here and people don’t come here to “make it big”, but to have a good time with their art/music/whatever. We have a big crafty community too and a pretty decent amount of thrift stores as well, including the $1 per lb goodwill “bins”.

    Since moving to Portland we’ve lived in two houses that have been very affordable. The first was a 1 br, about 800 sq ft with a big yard and fruit trees for $720 plus utilities. The house we are currently living has 4 bedrooms (two are downstairs and fairly small, but still!), 2 bathrooms, a finished basement and laundry room, hardwood floors and a big yard and we are paying $850 plus utilities. I feel like we’re getting an amazing deal on this house so it might not reflect the standard, but it exists! I can’t tell you much about apartments since I have never lived in one, but $600 seemed to be a pretty average price for a 1 br, so I bet you could find a 2 br for under $1000.

    Portland is really beautiful, green, eco-friendly and I love it! A lot of people are moving here but I think it’s a good thing as long as they care about the good aspects of Portland and keep those going.


  23. I’m an east coast (suburban NYC) transplant to the midwest, and I LOVE Chicago. Great variety of neighborhoods; it’s like NYC that way. You can definitely rent someplace nice for around or under $1000. Easy to bike around (it’s mostly flat), lots of cabs. Personally, I wouldn’t drive there — the traffic is horrid. Good art scene, great shopping, tons of great restaurants, and the beach!

    Portland has the best bike trails, though. More people bike-commute in Portland than anywhere else in the US. (Minneapolis, where I live, is second.) I’ve only ever visited Portland, and while it’s beautiful and green, it was slightly too granola-crunchy for me.


  24. in the past five years i have lived in both portland and seattle, and without any hesitation i would say portland comes out on top. it is greener (both physically and mentally), it is safer, it is easier to navigate and (as everyone has said) extraordinarily bike- and pedestrian-friendly.

    culturally seattle does have a lot to recommend it, i guess, but the downtown is dirtier and more expensive. it also had a big psychological effect on me that it’s always five degrees colder in seattle than in portland. in p-town, even though it rains every day in the winter, you see the sun at least once. and the summers are totally spectacular.

    both cities have some beautiful old neighborhoods with lots of character and gorgeous houses. but in portland, the rent is astronomically cheaper. the trade-off is that the job market in portland is always kind of depressed.

    honestly? though seattle is the town famous for its coffee culture, i prefer portland’s. neighborhoods surrounding Belmont and Hawthorne streets are dotted with little indie tea & coffee houses, many of which are built into amusingly-decorated old victorian homes. i guess i just found that seattle’s coffee culture was way too hip for me to get comfortable. i wasn’t frowning hard enough for those kids, or something. in portland i am totally at home in every part of town i’ve ever been to. the people are so very friendly! the waterfalls are half an hour away! i’ve never waited more than 10 minutes to get through security at their airport, and i’ve flown in and out of it maybe 15 times.

    can’t recommend portland highly enough. especially since i’m about to move back there myself!


  25. I actually live in Seattle, but am putting in my vote for Portland. ;)

    Seattle is great, don’t get me wrong, and when it comes to cultural events and “city life”, I think we have Portland beat.

    However, Portland is, as many have already noted, much more bike-friendly. Seattle tries to be bike-friendly, but I keep reading articles in the local alternative weekly (The Stranger) about disgruntled bike riders. I know that from the neighborhood where I live, I couldn’t get by without a car.

    Also, I understand it’s cheaper. We lived in a 1100 sq ft apartment in Seattle and it cost us about $1200 a month.

    And there are a lot more cute craft-friendly stores, PLUS they have Fabric Depot, which is this amazing fabric store that I actually make the 3-hour drive from Seattle just to hit!

    Plus, if there’s ever any event you wanna go to Seattle for, it *is* only 3 hours away! : ) (And LOTS of great thrifting on the way in those tiny “country” towns in between!)

    Good luck!


  26. I’ve lived all over the place & Portland is definitely the best city I’ve ever been in for public transportation, bike friendliness, & pedestrian friendliness. We also have great shopping, entertainment, people, very safe, etc. etc.


  27. shit, woman. well, if you are going to move, move to portland. i visit there once every 3 months and we can stay friends in person and not just over email. but i’d rather you not move, truly, so that’s all i am going to say.


  28. Portland is warm during the summer. Something I miss by living in SF. It has a thriving art scene (now home to previous SF artists, Chris Johanssen and Jo Jackson), as well as the well regarded Portland Art Museum. Also! Unrelatedly – no sales tax.

    For purely selfish reasons, since I don’t know you IRL, I hoped one day to run into you. Perhaps you’ll stay in SF for a few more months? Or perhaps we can just make a date one of these days, for thrifting or taking street photos (if that is something you’re interested in) or perhaps just afternoon tea? [I'm serious 'bout this.]

    Good luck with choosing a city to move to.
    Mai


  29. lisa: we’ve gotten jipped out of 4 showings on places this week because they rented the places before we could even come see them. we need more space but CANNOT afford $3000/mo just to stay in the city (the cost of some places with what we consider to be an appropriate amount of space). everything is extremely expensive right now, for renting or for buying. financially we are pinched, and obviously so is everyone else in the same market, but they are just lucky enough to get to an apartment before we can.

    i wish we could stay, but throwing $3000 away on an apartment is just not do-able for us right now…we do not have the money for that. in fact, the thought of it makes me want to actually vomit.

    i don’t want to leave my new friends, you among them, but the cost of living is just not sustainable. we’ll always be behind the 8-ball, as it were. we’ll never be able to save or buy if we pay $3000 a month. period. anything cheaper is just as out of reach because of the competition.

    i have no answers. it’s a fucking mess.


  30. I’ve only dealt firsthand w/ ATL and Philly:

    Philly is terribly rude [ruder than NJ & NYC combined], filthy, and terribly livable, heh. But I hate east coast weather, cold cold winter and humid hot summer, blech.

    ATL is a sprawling virus, yes. But if you live and work in Midtown, it is possible to live w/out a car, and due to mild weather you can bike/walk year-round [unlike Chicago!] 60% of Atlanteans live w/out a car, actually [probably because we Southerners are hella poor]. Midtown neighbourhoods are affordable, currently, though with the growing popularity/good jobs there, it is getting more expensive. Still about half th cost of living of SF.

    If weather is a makeorbreak thing, I’d stay on th left coast. I want to move to Oakland for the weather, heh.

    Other places you may want to consider:
    Providence, RI is amazing for a rather small city.
    Boston, which is also workable w/out a car.


  31. Portland is definitely very easy to navigate on bike and public transit, probably moreso than almost any other city, and the DIY craft community is huge, but I’m not sure if it’s metropolitan enough for you. I just remember you talking about how fashion is a joke in SF compared to NYC. Well, the fashion scene in PDX is the sort of zinester/artster/hipster thing, which while it definitely has its own fun flavor, is not anything like having a professional fashion district. Rent is going to be really low compared to SF. I moved from a lifetime in the bay area to Oregon 3 years ago and I love it here, but mostly because it’s so much that California is not.


  32. I live in LA and I love it here (especially the weather) but our housing situation is just as appalling as SF. Before I came here I spent two years in Chicago and it is my favorite city in the country (and this from a New York native). Affordable, great public transportation, amazing music scene, terrific coffee shops…the list goes on. I’ve never lived anywhere else on your list, but I’ve heard nothing but good about the pacific northwest.


  33. Atlanta, I like it a lot, but I’m from there so I’m biased. Atlanta is spread out and public transportation isn’t the best. And as just about everyone has said, it’s steamy hot in the summer. You can get around well on a bike though so long as you work somewhere near where you live. Neighborhoods I think you’d like are Little 5 Points, East Atlanta, Candler Park, Cabbagetown and Decatur (even though that’s technically a different city, it’s right beside those neighborhoods). These neighborhoods are little, like Bernal Heights Sized but there are a handful of good ones and those are all close to each other. There are lots of places to thrift and plenty of indie designers. Atlanta’s art scene isn’t at the level of SF, but making it’s way. There are plenty of great restaurants. Two lofts I’d look into are Bass Lofts in Little 5 (there is an awesome used clothing store across the street or was still there last time I was there a few months ago) and Fulton Cotton Mill Lofts (for sale only I think). We moved to SF a year ago from Atlanta and owned a 2 bedroom house w/ an office and unfinished basement for $200,000. You could get an apartment for 1,000-1,600 for what you’re looking for.

    People either get Atlanta or they don’t. If you’re winging it and not visiting places first before you make the move, I wouldn’t pick Atlanta–it’s the kind of place you’d want to visit first. Look at craigslist in those neighborhoods and see what you can find.

    If you want a list of places to go / things to do / where to shop / where to eat, I could email you some places if you’re going to visit there. It doesn’t have the variety of SF or NY or anything like that, but what’s good there is really good, I think. We’re going there next month for a friend’s wedding and I can’t wait. I’m going to post a bunch of stuff when we get back on our favorite places on my blog if you want to take a peek then.

    Other than that my vote would be Portland then Chicago (but darn cold in the winter).


  34. have you considered living outside of SF? not necessarily in the city, but in a surrounding city? the penninsula is much more affordable, the weather is MUCH warmer and sunnier, but all within access of the city (caltrain is bike friendly!). i rather enjoy it in the bay area.


  35. Chicago rules. I’ve lived here off and on, mostly on, since 1981. The CTA is not exactly elegant, service cuts are constantly threatened at budget time (we’re going through one of those periods at the moment) and it’s perpetually under re-construction, but I’ve depended on it as long as I’ve been here – I don’t drive at all, never have. Rents vary but you certainly needn’t spend anywhere near $3000/mo for a decent amount of space. Local music scene is AMAZING, other arts are lively indeed. If the weather didn’t suck, everyone would want to live here :)


  36. I agree with all the positive things people have to say about Portland. One thing to note however, people keep saying, “Oh, the rain, blah, blah, blah…” Seattle actually gets MORE rain, yearly :)


  37. out of all these, i see you in chicago. it’s been years since i’ve visited but i remember thinking it was like a mini nyc. i really liked it there even though it was 22 degrees in november. yikes. have friends out there who lovelovelove it. not sure so much about the getting around without a car, but maybe a visit is in order?


  38. Philly is dirty, bitter cold in the winter, full of crime /drugs,and expensive.

    Just cross Philly off the list.

    The winters are very bitter, ack! Just a crap bucket city

    sorry Philly


  39. Boston or Providence are great for the car-less. (I’m in Boston so I’m a bit biased!) Otherwise I really like Chicago–though it gets a lot colder there in the winter than the east coast.


  40. I don’t live in any of those, or in the US at all, but I’ve visited and seriously considered living in both Seattle and Portland. I guess it depends on what kind of city you want to live in, when it comes to the overall feeling and attitude. I live in Victoria, BC, and I think Seattle and Portland are the most Canadian of all US cities, if that means anything to you. The Pacific Northwest area in particular has a certain culture to it. It seems greener and more laid back, though the more you get into a large city, the faster the pace of life will be. When I was thinking about where I wanted to live, I liked Portland the best. I think it has more of a small city feel with a closer knit community, including the arts scene. But I like small cities, hence why I live in Victoria and not Vancouver. If you want something more like NYC or San Francisco, then Seattle would be better. Though I think their housing prices are fairly high right now, though not comparable to California. Check out craigslist for some idea of housing prices in those cities.

    Also, the rain in the winter can be kind of a downer, but I much prefer it to all that snow (I used to live in Ontario). Plus, you can get cute rain boots!


  41. I moved from Orange County to Portland two years ago. I loved in here at first, but I’m now considering moving to NYC mainly due to the small town-ness of it here. I still think it’s a really great city, but just not for me. I thought I’d contribute a list of pros and cons for Portland…

    Pros:
    -Rent is still quite affordable (although on the rise). You can actually live in a big old house here for not too expensive.
    -Beautiful summers.
    -A thriving DIY/craft community.
    -Lots of good house shows.
    -Great public transportation.
    -Very bike-friendly.
    -No sales tax.
    -Good music scene.
    -Good art galleries.
    -Very friendly people.
    -Vegan-friendly.
    -Safe.

    Cons:
    -Places close really early.
    -Not a ton of things to do.
    -Very cliquey (small hipster groups, close-knit zine kids, ets.)
    -Rain, rain, and more rain.
    -Too many hippie/new-agey people.
    -Really doesn’t feel like a big city.
    -Horrible job market/high unemployment rate.
    -Becoming very gentrified.
    -Most neighborhoods are very similar.
    -Not great for fashion.
    -Can feel rather boring.

    Hope that helps.


  42. Portland, definitely.

    I don’t have a car (or even know how to drive), and it’s hardly a problem at all. I’m a student, so I live very close to campus, but this summer I’ve been commuting all over the place, and it’s just fine. Everyone will warn you about the rain, but it’s not nearly as bad as they’ll have you believe. Everything stays green and clean and beautiful year round, and you just get used to having a misty drizzle. I hardly even carry an umbrella.

    Depending on what part of the city you’re in, the fashion/art/music scene varies a lot. I’m a big fan of the Eastside, generally speaking. Anything around Belmont/Hawthorne is cute and close to theatres, vintage shops, and lots of other independent businesses. In the NE, I’ve heard very good things about the Alberta district.

    My friend’s father just bought a house close in Southeast, which is a desirable area, for $140k. It’s two stories, two baths, five bedrooms, nice backyard. Granted, it needed electrical work and other stuff, but it’s worth keeping in mind. Rents in my part of the city (and they vary a lot depending on where you are) are usually in the $1000-1500 range for houses like you’re looking for. Also, I don’t know whether this is a good or bad thing for you, but unless you live right downtown or make an effort to find a condo, you’ll probably end up living in a house. Portland has some nice bungalows.


  43. The comment about Austin being ‘bike unfriendly’ is not true,
    There are tons of riders in the city, (I being one of them)
    and we seem to get around just fine,
    I love Austin, I don’t think you can ever get bored living here,
    with all the live indie music & art happening,
    the many yummy restaurants and thrift shopping, plus it’s affordable!

    I know it’s not on your list, but you may want to re-think it over,
    maybe pay a visit first? see it for yourself,

    xo


  44. Hey just wanted to add a city/twinned city to the list: the Twin Cities in minnesota. The art scene in the TC is pretty amazing lots of runoff from New York in the 80’s so it has a huge dance, theatre and gallery culture, check out the walker art musuem. The public transport is really good, v. dependable and the TC is very bike friendly (I’ve lived here for 5 years and never had a car). Theres a whole activist culture around the TC which is very cool and like the rest of the midwest its still pretty affordable esp. st paul. The major draw back is the weather (but I’m originally from the Bahamas so if I can make it anyone can) but for the last coupla years its been pretty good with january and february being the coldest. The TC get overlooked alot but in terms of an artistic community and diversity (which also equals really interesting cuisine choices) as well as natural beauty (hiking or strolling in the fall or on a lake can’t be beat) I think you get exponential bang for your buck.


  45. I lived in both Seattle and Philadelphia, and I found both cities very liveable and walkable. I would say that a car in Seattle would be a good bet, as the city is quite spread out, and the bus service (while excellent) is not 24-hours. Philadelphia is city where you can live without a car, but having one makes getting out easier. There is at least one company that caters to city-dwellers with car-sharing and easy day-long rentals for major grocery shopping or that trip to Ikea. Both cities have a good music scene, good restaurants with good ethnic eats variations as well, etc. I would say that there’s the added benefit of an a easy visit to Boston, DC or NYC if you lived in Philadelphia. I was able to score some great thrift store and vintage store purchases in both cities, but I can’t say how that is now. It’s generally a flux thing, I think.


  46. I lived in Philly for three years – it was horrible. The summers are hot and humid, and the winters, while not so bad snow-wise are really bad because there’s not much funding put into snow removal. The public transit is really bad – we didn’t have a car for 2 of the three years we lived there, and while you can get anywhere in the city, it takes forever.

    If you don’t mind hot weather – there’s Nashville. I’ve heard the public transit there isn’t very good, but it is improving. I get the impression it’s bike friendly, there’s lots of thrifting and a pretty vibrant arts community. And Nashville is still pretty cheap housing-wise.


  47. can you live there w/o a car? is the city bike-friendly?

    yes yes yes yes yes. and there’s flexcar, which is like city carshare, so if you need a car you can get one easily.

    what kind of cultural environment do each of these cities have? the arts, fashion, music?

    it’s a small-city art environment. Museum is good but has a definite second-city feel. Great galleries though, and a lively diy-art sense. And probably more to it than that, I’m still new in town (2yrs). And Seattle is a 4-hr train ride away with great museum and sculpture park. I love the street fashion here, and I gather there is a proper fashion “scene” as well. Music… I am not really into the music scene lately but there is a ton of it here. Like Seattle I guess.

    what’s the average price for a ~1000 sq. ft. loft/2-3 bedroom apartment/townhouse/small home?

    probably about $1700-2000. We have a 2200-sf 3+ br house for about $2K. Portland has nicer housing stock than Seattle. Lots of great neighborhoods in both Seattle and Portland.

    or, outside of these cities, are there any other good livable cities in the u.s. you’d recommend?

    Nope! But I’m biased and love the Northwest, it’s my adopted home.

    We moved away from the Bay Area for the same reason you are considering doing so.

    –patrick


  48. Love Portland but it feels *very* small to me (I grew up & live in Seattle.) It’s got a downtown that is fun for shopping but shuts down after 9PM (but for the restaurants.) The funkier neighborhoods along Hawthorne and Alberta are very arty, boutique-y, and DIY (loved Frock, particularly on Alberta) but they’re a good drive from the heart of downtown.

    Seattle. My boyfriend and I live in a 1200 square foot apartment a five minute walk from downtown. I am a essentially a secretary and we split the rent. That should tell you how doable living expenses are for *renting* Owning is approaching near impossible, San Francisco like figures. I don’t own a car & am easily able to get anywhere by bus if I can’t get there on foot.

    Capitol Hill is the amazing, arty, thrifty, thriving music center also 5 minutes walk uphill from downtown. It is *very* affordable for renting and there are tons of old buildings that will almost certainly get you a view of the city for a very reasonable price. Georgetown is becoming known as the place people who can’t stand the slowly gentrifying element of Capitol Hill go. Very arty, thrifty, and DIY with great bars but it’s a 10 minute drive south of the city center. Phinney Ridge, Fremont and Wallingford are also great neighborhoods north of the city that might run a little bit more money-wise.

    I see you got tons of responses. Email me if you want more info on Portland or Seattle.


  49. Well, you know how much I love Chicago, but I admit it might not be for everyone. However – not only would I love it if you were close enough to meet – I think you & P would really like it here. It really is NYC on a Philly budget. Truly. We have just as much cool stuff, but what we don’t have as much of is glitzy-ritzy – and that keeps the cost of living down for everyone.

    It’s a city of small restaurants that you have to go looking for – the best places don’t have lit-up signs, or write-ups in the paper, and they aren’t downtown, but instead are mom-and-pop places that remember regulars and serve top-notch ethnic food. There are also plenty of more high profile places that are fun for a special night out.

    The bar scene isn’t as… defined… as NYC. Neighborhood bars are just that – the places where whoever lives nearby happens to hang out, so the crowds tend to be quite mixed. You can end up sitting between an off-duty cop and a self-professed anarchist, because it’s just that sort of city.

    One thing some people don’t get into – we are sports OBSESSED here. If you aren’t from Chicago, you will be sick and tired of all the Cubs/Sox debates by the end of every summer. And then, for the fall, everyone has plans for Sundays.

    Music scene is heavy on rock & blues, house, industrial. The techno scene comes in and out – the harder stuff finds an audience, but the flashy stuff tends to be (ooh, I get to use a term I just learned…!) very B&T in the crowd it attracts.

    I think the rents and the cost-of-living, though – after NYC & SF, I think you guys would about pass out how much cheaper it is in Chicago. You can get a lot for $1500/month, plus food & entertainment cost less, too.


  50. Right now I live in Philly, after relocating from Portland…since Portland is hipster paradise, Philly is a disappointment in comparison (I moved here for my job). That said, Philly is really cheap, the public transportation seems good, and houses are still affordable. It is relatively bike-friendly, but not in the way that Portland is (imagine entire streets dedicated to bikes, and laws that protect bicyclists). That said, the public transportation in Portland is spotty (but supposedly getting better), rent is cheap, but houses are EXPENSIVE.

    And before I lived in Portland, I lived in Chicago…and endless list of fun stuff to do, bike friendly, housing prices vary. Weather=horrible, but I swear you get used to it after a while.

    Don’t hesitate to email me with any questions!


  51. Hello!

    Chicago is fantastic and is where I would go if I had the chance. I spent a couple of semesters at the University of Chicago and loved it, and have visited many times before and since. Living in Hyde Park, at least, I found it helpful to have access to a car – public transit is readily available, but things are really spread out and midwestern, so a car can save a lot of time. There is tons of art, craft, music, shopping and of course great food! People seemed generally friendly and sometimes had charming accents.

    As for the city I know best, that is Washington DC. The DC area is great, but expensive (cost of living is 81% over national average) and lacking a very active cultural scene.

    One suggestion I might make is Baltimore. Similar to Philadelphia in many ways, but also different. There is a reasonably hip “scene” with several good music venues – and even bands that skip DC often stop in bmore because the audience supports them. Galleries, some cool boutiques, etc. Most of all, a relatively low cost of living, and still in quick train-distance from NYC, DC, Philly, etc.

    You might consider looking here to compare costs of living. It seems like a pretty good chart: http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0883960.html


  52. I love Seattle.. but its not for everyone. the weather’s mild and the natural beauty is incomparable, there are tons of opportunities for creatives of all kinds.. but its not for everyone. Honestly, I see you in Chicago.


  53. Hi!
    I grew up in Chicago and have now lived in Seattle for about a year.

    Chicago in my mind is a bigger mix of things, good and bad. Really cold in the winter and humid hot in the summer. I’ve never driven so yes trains and buses okay, mostly took trains, and I’d be a bit scared doing the bike thing in Chicago traffic. The art and culture there I think is really good, I miss the Art Institute. Its been awhile since I lived in Chicago but its a city I felt like I had to be more careful safetywise, (remember I love Chicago) more careful than Seattle or Boston.

    Seattle, I love the mild weather. I moved here from Boston and in comparison its much cheaper but it feels like its going to change and get more costly real soon. There is building construction, mostly condos, everywhere and its a bugger. Living here without a car is no worse for me than Boston or Chicago, they only have buses and they follow a schedule pretty well. The buses have bike racks on the front and I’ve seen them used quite a bit.

    I feel like Seattle is really easy going, friendly, and pretty supportive to people in the arts community. I feel less pressure here to go out and make money, hurry, and know what you want to do. I’m going thru another “what to do with my life” phase and it feels like a good town to be in for this.

    Having said all that, Chicago has been whispering its name to me a bit, ugh, not another move!


  54. everyone: OH MY GOD. ask and ye shall receive! thanks everyone. when i get a free minute, i need to sit down and digest all this in more detail…i’m sure i’ll have more questions. you all are amazing!


  55. Dang! Obviously I’m late on this. Anyway…Chicago is certainly one of the most livable cities in the US. The public transportation is decent (fares are projected to rise soon, bleh) and it is bikable, as it’s totally flat and most major streets noe have bike lanes. Rents vary depending on where you live (trendy areas cost more of course), but I have a friend who has a two bedroom apartment west of downtown for about $750 a month. But Chicago has everything you could ever want from a city, from the opera house to the late-night hot dog stand.

    On the flip, Chicago has a level of racial/ethnic tension that I haven’t seen in other major cities. But then again, you must know about that, living in the Bay area. Also, it is true, the weather has a way of weeding out the thin-blooded. If you can stand a New York winter, you probably could stand a Chicago winter.
    Good luck, I know what it’s like to be in this situation. I hope you and Pete settle in a place that’s right for you both.


  56. I’ve lived in Chicago all my life (all 18 years!) and honestly think it’s the best city ever. I’m actually moving away at the end of the week to start college and this is really making me super nostalgic. Chicago has all these wonderful little neighborhoods full of cute restaurants and boutiques( and there are TONS of awesome thrift stores!) and you can spend lots of time exploring them all. Wicker Park/Bucktown are considered the “hip” neighborhoods but there are lots of other cool areas. I would recommend subscribing to TimeOutChicago if and when you move because it’s full of great things to do around Chicago and highlights all the events going around in the city. And as a kid who grew up on public transportation, I can tell you that those CTA buses and trains will take you anywhere and everywhere. There’s a total indie music scene around here (and lots of music fests- hello Pitchfork and Lollapalooza!) as well as a nice art scene(the Art Institute, the Museum of Contemporary Art and lots of nice small galleries) and we get the Renegade Craft Fair in September! ( I think they also just opened a Renegade Craft Store in Wicker Park)
    I think you’d like it here! I know I do!


  57. I love SF, but I agree with you that it is really expensive. I love Chicago and have been there a few times to want to move there. The shopping is wonderful, the public transportation is good, and the music scene is lively. The city is not overrated.


  58. There’s an awful lot of Chicago love here, which is cool, but I don’t necessarily share it. Well, I’m of mixed opinion.

    Chicago has great shopping, great art, a ton of interesting events, great schools, several art/design schools, etc. Compared to other cities, it is indeed cheap – my large one bedroom apartment is $725 a month, which is pretty reasonable. Thrift shopping is really good here, and public transport exists (one can debate endlessly about whether it is “good” or “reliable”).

    However, for me living here has been really challenging. I moved here for grad school from the west coast, and it has been one culture shock after another. The racial/ethnic segregations are really bothersome to me as are the huge economic and educational disparaties. Chicago is one of the most segregated cities in the US (second only to New Orleans, I think), and as someone who grew up in one of the most diverse cities in the US, this has been really hard and disappointing.

    Chicago, as indicative of the midwest, is very conservative. It’s far more liberal than most places in the midwest, but still far more conservative than the west coast. Although it has gotten easier in recent years, being a vegetarian (esp. a poor vegetarian) is harder here than the west coast. Luckily, however, we have two trader joe’s here now.

    I think the trick to Chicago is finding your niche early. Given your art proclivities, you might have an easier time of it than I have. Although shopping is good, fashion is really disappointing. People here dress very conservatively (and to my eyes, fairly sexily in ways I find a little disconcerting – like students showing up to class wearing halter tops that barely cover anything), and even though I’m not really all that “out there” in terms of my choices, I get a lot of stares. It’s also very very image concious in ways I find really uncomfortable. Luckily my neighborhood is diverse and I am more likely to see people who kind of look more like me (not exactly – but in terms of fashion risks and liberaness), and that helps.

    And actually, I would recommend my neighborhood. Others have recommended the Bucktown/wicker park area – which is great, but a bit too spendy and getting to be too gentrified to me (esp. damen avenue). However, I recall reading once those neighborhoods have the highest concentration of artists anywhere in the US. I live in the next neighborhood over – logan square. It is a really diverse neighborhhood in terms of economics, and has a nice mix of hispanic families, polish families, poor college students, and artists. We have one of the best restaurants in the city (Lula cafe) and there is a nice little local designer clothing store (wolfbait) that I think you’d like. They offer classes on things like screenprinting and other stuff. We have a stitch ‘n’ bitch in the ‘hood, and really great food and thrift shopping. We also have a target – which is awesome (and walking distance from my place).

    The job market here is tough right now – but it may be that way everywhere, I dunno. I guess I just wanted to say that although it is a big city – it is still a midwestern city, and that can be surprising. People here are not laid back (which maybe wouldn’t bother you as much being from NYC) and there is far more anger/yelling here than I’ve ever seen (this was the hugest shock upon moving here, and I still can’t deal with it). But, I think if you find your niche, you can be really happy here. There are lots of pockets of artists, liberals, hipsters, social do-gooders, feminists, etc.


  59. Too bad Toronto isn’t an American city because it fits the rest of your criteria perfectly. I’d take you out for brunch if you came…


  60. Chicago!

    I’ve lived here for 7 years. Public transit is pretty good despite its faults. The city is pretty bicycle-friendly (lake paths & bike lanes & plenty of place to lock yourself up). Anywhere else you need to go, I would suggest looking into zipcar.com or igocars.com, which are both car shares. I live pretty far away from target but I can just book one of these for an hour or two (or sometimes the whole day to go to ikea) & like magic I have a car (insurance & gas all included).

    lovely museums (Museum of Contemporary Art, the Art Institute, The Field Museum, The Museum of Science & Industry, the Children’s Museum, Garfield Conservatory). i can’t really comment too much on the music or fashion scene, but from what I hear tell, it’s not too shabby.

    There are several very lovely yarn shops throughout the city as well.

    Depending on the area that you choose, your neighborhood will certainly dictate the price of your flat. Ukranian Village is super cheap but not really near any trains (plenty of buses though). Wicker Park is pretty trendy so it’s a bit more expensive. Lakeview (which is a gigantic neighborhood that’s really more a few different neighborhoods- wrigleyville (steer clear unless you’re very partial to fratish dude-bros) & boystown (gay town USA- I live here and it is soooo wonderful. Many things to do & see. Very little parking.)


  61. Some more Chicago love here! Pretty much everything that I was going to say has been said. I’ve lived here for 7 years and my husband has been here for about 19. You can definitely live here without a car, although it is easier with some neighborhoods than others. I think you have a better time getting around if you live along an el line (the red, blue or brown get you most places) and then supplement other trips with the bus. The trains are definitely more timely than buses, but that is kind of common sense. Also the Zipcar and I-Go car sharing program is a great option for the car-less.

    Chicago is one of the most bike-able cities. Tons of bike paths on streets and more planned for the future. The lake path is a lovely route. Like another commenter said the city is flat and makes biking easy.

    As far as rent/buying, you can get pretty great deals here. I currently live on the north side of the city in Edgewater in a huge three bedroom and we pay $1200. We have space for my painting studio in what should be the living room, space for my husband’s music studio in a bedroom, a spare bedroom for guests, etc. etc. So you can get a lot for your money.

    My husband and I are currently looking into buying a 2 bedroom condo. You can spend anywhere between under $200,000 to well over $300,000. It all depends on where you are looking and what type of place you want.

    Neighborhoods you might want to consider: Logan Square, Lincoln Square, West Loop (lots of lofts there), Fulton Market (also lots of lofts there), Andersonville, Edgewater, Rogers Park. Bucktown and Wicker Park are great places to go to, but it is getting super gentrified, expensive and when I lived there I had a lot less space than I currently do.

    Good luck with your decision!


  62. Oh yeah, Ukrainian Village and West Town are two more neighborhoods to add to the list.

    I’d recommend checking out the Chicago Reader for housing listings. You’ll get a better idea of what you can expect to pay for certain neighborhoods.
    http://classifieds.chicagoreader.com/chicago/Results?subsection=oid%3A123


  63. I’ve lived in Chicago, NYC and SF, here are my thoughts on Chicago:

    - very very affordable, however not as much work to be found as in nyc and sf.
    - bike lanes *everywhere*, really a great feature.
    - beautiful landscaping, the city takes pride in their appearance.
    - the weather is too harsh and extreme for my liking. 3 weeks of negative 20 was enough to make me start making plans to move out. i like heat but my husband couldn’t stand the humidity.
    - very homogeneous. having grown up in SF and moving to Chicago straight from NYC, I was used to a lot more diversity. the lack of it was a shock to me.
    - travel even 50 miles outside of the city and experience a lot of people staring at you, if you are brown like me
    - ugh. the accent.

    I can understand not loving SF, especially for what you are paying to live here. My mortgage is $3k and I live in Mission Dolores, but we’re thinking about moving to Portland once we build up enough equity.


  64. I just got back from a 10 day stint in Seattle– I’m actually moving there from Syracuse NY in the beginning of October. I spent the week shopping for apartments. It was frustrating and expensive. We weren’t even looking for places in Downtown but in Bothel, Lynnwood and Redmond and we were looking at a one bedroom 6hundred-something square foot apartment for $700-800. And that was the cheapest side of things! I’m flabbergasted by the cost but really enjoyed visiting downtown areas. Can’t wait to constantly be eating fresh fish. I didn’t get a chance to try out the bus system but I’ve heard good things and have friends that commute by bus every day. I’ll be using the bus to commute into UW since we will only have one car and my husband needs it for work travel in the city. There were bus stops everywhere and many commuters seem to use them and the Ferry System which would be pretty cool.

    I do have a comment on traffic– it was full of long, tiresome waits. A place might only be 10 miles away but could take you 30+ minutes to get there. Definitely not Syracuse.