what's wrong with fashion?

what's wrong with fashion?

*is* there anything wrong with fashion right now?

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perhaps it's all fine and dandy to some, and some aren't perceiving anything...but...
sometimes i get this feeling that something seems like it's all coming to a head...there's a certain, but increasingly palpable uncertain-ness in the air, from a fashion industry perspective, but also, from a consumer perspective. i know a lot of people may not be able to perceive it, they may not care, but i'm feeling it acutely, almost like it's a premonition.
it feels as if, collectively, as a culture, we're all wondering where to go next and what's going to happen next.

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i know i cannot the only one feeling a subtle paradigm shift happening in terms of fashion...and really, a shift happening in the culture at large. it seems as if perceptions are shifting on a grand scale.
do you feel this too? or no? if not, what do you feel? articulate it, if you can!

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(frankly, i love thinking about fashion and style, i like the idea of fashion, the process of making wearables...but the reality of the way it is in the stores and on the runways right now just leaves me wanting, leaves me cold and questioning.)
(and so, i absorb. i think. and i question.)

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on the absorbing tip...
the article from WWD (in the snap above) queried fashion industry insiders who were pondering the current state of fashion at this very instant. the aforementioned called out the following as possible reasons why all things fashion-related feel more than a little uncertain:
-the economy tanking (especially here in the US, it's beginning to look pretty dire...)
-insane prices of designer wear (coupled with the aforementioned weak US economy and value of the dollar against other currencies like the pound and euro)
-the lack of color in the recently commenced fall shows: black is dominant. people want and connect with color, but designers aren't offering it (these dark colors for clothing seem almost funereal, and are, interestingly enough, an apt metaphor for the malaise and fear in the air culturally, politically and economically. hmm!)
-an overhyped fashion industry machine: stuff is churned out so fast and slammed into our face so much (via magazines, blogs, websites and the like), we lose sense of what season we're in and what's really significant at any given moment stylistically.
-the lack of a single, solitary "must-have" item in the market at the moment (a trend for consumers like us to fixate upon, which would drive us to the stores to buy, buy, buy)
-an off-kilter delivery cycle that puts clothing on the racks and shelves of stores months before a season actually starts...which works against the fact that people want to wear what they buy RIGHT NOW. why stash it away for later?? (think: putting out spring threads in the dead of winter, fall clothes in the heat of summer.)
-fast fashion is a worthy adversary: some retailers push new, relevant designs out to their floors constantly, pleasing the customer...something it's more difficult for big designers to do or sustain. designers feel the pinch.
-some people would rather spend good money on the latest gadgets (think: iPhone), something that ensures long-lasting, practical use, than buy lots of (inevitably) trendy, disposable clothes.

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on the thinking tip...
other possible reasons for malaise and uncertainty:
-some lament (and others celebrate) the diversity of today's style scene: anything goes. this is bad news for manufacturers, who, like it says above, would probably prefer one dominant look to foist upon a large number of potential customers.
-and trends change SO FREAKING FAST now, consumers can't keep up. and what happens when the trends du jour don't resonate with customers? not everyone's into each and every look! just because designers are into it, because designers are making it, doesn't mean that customers are going to eat it up. the aforementioned diversity of today's cultural landscape is at odds with that designer motive: many people cannot relate or find what's on offer as being relevant to their bodies, or their lives.

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consumers, people like us, all of us, who buy clothes, are feeling more than a little blasé about the current state of fashion and shopping too. a recent article from the telegraph references the article i paraphrased from WWD. called why fashion has gone off the rails, i feel it sort of encapsulates this current uncertain fashion zeitgeist:

You scarcely need to listen to the biblical chorus of retailers blaming the credit crunch, the weather, energy bills (anything but themselves) to see the evidence that this spring women have risen up, taken a look round the shops, pulled a face - and kept their plastic in their purses.
Clock the fact that the "mid-season sale" has arrived in so many places before the "season" has even got going (with barely a moment to clear winter's discounted leftovers) and there's only one thing to conclude: sorry, but we just don't like these clothes that much.

consumers biggest complaint?
that, increasingly, clothes are not just blah in terms of style (non-comittal, non-novel, bland details), but are made cheaply of cheap materials. why bother buying when the garment is garbage even on the hanger?
low, low prices are only convincing for a while...when money is tight (and tighter with each passing day), buyers want to know that what they deign to buy is actually a deal, and not a dupe. *something* about that piece, whatever it is, has to sell it, has to signify it's special nature to the shopper...and in that arena, manufacturers are falling short. perhaps the bottom hasn't been reached, but we're falling toward it.
something has to give, eventually, doesn't it?
...because after all, those manufacturers and marketers are feeling the pinch too. cheap materials and labor mean the potential for eking out more profits...vitally important in economically restrictive days to come. some might call it greed, indeed. and some might say, well, those mass-market makers are just trying to stay afloat, to brace themselves from the wave of uncertainty and possible hard times that feel as if they just might be rumbling toward us all.

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and so, some questions to foster discussion:
-what's the answer, then? what do we do and buy in these times, if anything?
-in this dismal economic scene, where does fashion go? where do we go as consumers? what DO we choose to buy and do to express ourselves when what's on offer doesn't suit us anymore?
-do we keep on with this movement of making our own? do we increasingly take fashion and style into our own hands? could this mean even more interest in sewing, restyling, and the needle arts?
-will second-hand shopping become even more desirable for more people? what happens when we turn to said sources, and only find them crammed with discards from those cheap-chic stores? then what?
-what will happen to these designers, to luxury fashion, if the customers stop lining up to buy, from lack of funds, or lack of interest?
-if everything is in style, if everything is up for grabs, is there any way that we could, collectively, go back to accepting one main directive? is there a potential for one overriding aesthetic anymore?
-how do we digest and make sense of the call for more ethical, more green ways of living, of clothing and expressing ourselves, if at all? do these factors weigh in any with this feeling of uncertainty with what's on offer in the shops, and what we choose, in the end, to put on our bodies? if so, what do we need to do?

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indeed...
where is fashion going next?
(if anywhere??)

(not so) random links

-when i am 65, i want to look as incredible and stylish as this sassy grande dame, leena, who was recently posted to that always and forever inimitable finnish street fashion site, hel-looks:

leena65hellooks.jpg

this quote from the lovely lady pictured above is, to me, spot on:

I like fashion and have lots of clothes. I never buy ordinary clothes. I keep my clothes for decades and never throw them out.

when clothes are unordinary and lovely, they can become transcendently timeless, even extraordinary. an argument for continued wear, indeed. i don't imagine her being tremendously into disposable, trendy junk.

i adore it when hel-looks, or ANY street fashion blogs, make a concerted effort to post photos of people of all ages, especially those who've got several decades of living under their belt (read: more than 20, or even 30). undeniably proving, yet again, that all those immature whippersnappers who say fashion is only he domain of the young are full of sh*t.

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-guilty of buying too much stuff (clothes, records, books, whatever) and never getting rid of it? if so, you might relate to this vimeo video i spotted a couple weeks back via boing boing, called possessed.

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and of course, the quick and dirty:

-wisecraft gives us a peek into natalie chanin's (formerly of project alabama, now working under the name alabama chanin) new sewing/craft book, alabama stitch book. me want, as me have been big fan of natalie's work for years and years. yes!

-a commenter (rosiepop) who's also with child tipped me off to the maternity wear of designer isabella oliver. stunning and sexy doesn't even begin to describe her threads...all the draping in her tops and dresses makes the full, abundant figure of the pregnant woman look the picture of a classic greek or roman goddess. wowza.

-i agree with yarn over movement/stay fancy free, this oversized shrug designed by rowan yarns is mighty stunning.

(not so) random links

sorry so quiet this week. this time it's my fault...i've got a beastly head/chest cold and pretty much zero energy. bah.
but here you go! tons and tons of links to make up for the lack of post-age on my part!

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-not many fashion announcements of fashion lines get me all excited and stuff, but damn, i'm looking forward to the much talked about marimekko/h&m collaboration, available in h&m stores starting in april 2008 (via the telegraph). beats all that target/go-international stuff by a mile, i say! marimekko! mid-century modern finnish goodness! WOO HOO! let's hope it lives up to the hype, i might actually cave and buy some. *crosses fingers*
see also: a preview of the marimekko/h&m collection at nitrolicious

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-marc jacobs and his designs for his various labels have been so hit and miss/been boring the hell out of me for most of the last several years/seasons (what happened to all the good stuff he was churning out in the early 2000's? i miss the old, unfit, more creative marc! come back, old school marc jacobs!). one of the more interesting things he's churned out of late were the LEGO accessories he showed during the spring 2008 show. such a thing is so easy to copy it's silly! c'mon, who's he kidding, anyway??
so on that note: morgan of panda head shows you how to DIY your own marc jacobs-esque LEGO belt on a recent post on brightest young things...in this case it's WAY better than dropping a gazillion bucks for the real thing.

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get a gander at what those studious smarties over at university of california at berkeley are wearing right now by checking out this slideshow of such over berkeley.edu. those berkley beauties have also launched their own fashion mag, bare, that comes in a quarterly format.

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-a curious but slightly non-sensical body art trend that reminds me of those strangely popular inner lip tattoos: tooth tattoos! (via offbeat ink)

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-vanity sizing: why does this still persist?? (via the seattle times) why can't we just pick a number for a size and stick with it? NUMBERS DON'T MATTER, whether something FITS you does. sizes are a joke. if i ever have my own line of clothing (ha!) it's all gonna just have measurements (bust, waist, hip, whatever's applicable to said garment)...none of this arbitrary random number crap.

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-inspiration, ahoy! outsapop has posted 99 pages of clippings from her inspiration book. i suggest following her suggestion: also check out the inspiration book flickr group. some time ago (years now? wow.), i also posted some snaps of my favorite pages in my fashion clippings book (they start w/ that photo, scroll through). maybe i'll do that again. what catches our eye says so much about us, just like what we wear, collect, eat...and everything else!

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-cycle chic is hitting critical mass! (pun intended) it's a good thing too: biking is good exercise, and good for the environment. forgo the odd spandex shorts, people: you can and should look stylish while pedaling around! make the effort! garner inspiration from the likes of london's cycle chic, copenhagen cycle chic (who's been mentioned here before, back in november!), and flickr's velocouture.
see also: this round-up of ridiculously cute bike baskets on cool hunting
and check out: wardrobe_remix's own madebytess, one of the most fabulous fashionistas on two wheels (or off!)...

Wardrobe Remix Day 107/Velocouture!

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-william good (the san francisco area goodwill venture that restyles discards that i mentioned here this past fall) is looking for a new lead designer. if i had 3 years of actual factual design experience, i might apply! perhaps you or a friend qualifies? spread the word.

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quick quick and dirty dirty:
-i don't give a crap if shrugs are 'out', this nob hill shrugy pattern thing on knitty is lovely. and something that a preggy person with an ever-expanding belly like mine could actually wear *right now*. 'cept in a bright color or somethin', natch.
-a video about how "buttons are made" (via craft:). starring indie goddess miranda july. hee, hee, hee!
-a tutorial on linoleum printing on indie fixx. do it up on some fabric and make yourself some clothes out of it! yeah!
-these mary jane baby booties are so twee they make me squee!! i plan on making several for le girl bebe with various bits of leftover yarn (of which i have much).

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again, send me your links! heard or seen anything cool around the nets you want to share? tell me and i just might put it here in a future (not so) random links post.
(need some ideas? send over bits of interest or suggestions on websites, cool links, other people's blogs, and news that others might find interesting too...fashiony, stylish things of any of those descriptions that you just can't keep to yourself!)

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i'll post the highlights some of your sent-in links in another future post! (thanks to those who sent some my way!)