nnontsikelelo "lolo" veleko: beauty is in the eyes of a beholder

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(photos via nnontsikelelo "lolo" veleko and the afronova gallery)

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through the lovely ms. shoo of she breathes i read about a photographer named nnontsikelelo "lolo" veleko, who shoots stunningly beautiful street fashion-style photos in her hometown, johannesburg, south africa. the photos seen above are part of is part of a series that has the very apt title of "beauty is in the eyes of a beholder".
you can see more of nnontsikelelo "lolo" veleko's work here, and can find out more about her artistic motivations and personal history here.

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after taking in the above photos i had the following thoughts:
one: that, in general, style and trends these days are incredibly, almost scarily global. the clothes the folks in the photos are wearing are in many, many ways, similar to those folks are wearing in most major urban areas across the world, and were probably sourced at similar retail outlets. one could perhaps argue that these people could be from anywhere, not specifically africa, if we're just looking at their clothing.
two: one the other hand, even though the clothes the folks are wearing strongly suggest the influence and reach of globalization of goods and culture in our modern times, there is something distinct and beautiful, and dare i say, local/provencial about the style of the people she shoots. i'd argue that special, different factor at play here has something to do with the use of color and pattern: it's fearless, in your face, relentless, idiosyncratic. i don't know a tremendous amount about south african history, but i am wondering if color, or pattern mixing in the way of textiles, in the past or present, has or had a symbolic meaning or history in the local or national culture...and if this influences the way the young people dress there in any way? also...it's not just what they are wearing...it's something about who they are, and how they are wearing it. it's the mix...methinks. there seems to be a local flavor i'm feeling. is it just me? feel free to debate the converse if you so please.

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related notes of interest:
-nnontsikelelo "lolo" veleko's work is part of an exhibit that is currently running at NYU's gray art gallery called the poetics of cloth: african textiles/recent art. if you're lucky enough to be in or around NYC, go see it! (and report back and let me know how it was, if you don't mind!)
-according to south african street style, south africa's version of elle deems the sartorially savvy street-sourced style-mavens of johannesburg (like the ones depicted in veleko's body of work) "'smarteez': brown on the inside, multicoloured on the outside," and suggest that they are the south african version of the seminal young fashion mavericks of harajuku...

(not so) random links

-what we choose to wear is symbolic, no? arguably, we have intentions behind what we choose to wear, and we seek to express and say different things with our clothing and other complimentary accoutrements (i touched upon this a great deal in my why do we wear what we wear? post).
sometimes, though, we may think we're expressing and intend to express something with our clothing, but what we wear can and is, at times, interpreted quite differently by the world at large, or by small subsets of the world at large, depending upon their beliefs or perspective. such is the case with a scarf donned by food network and pop culture star rachael ray in a recent dunkin donuts commercial. said scarf was allegedly merely adorned with a black and white paisley pattern, but some folks of a more reactionary bent felt the scarf in question looked a little too much like the black and white woven keffiyeh scarves favored by arab men, which (according to/quoting conservative commentator michelle malkin and others like her): "[have] come to symbolize murderous palestinian jihad."
caving to pressure from conservative camps who share malkin's viewpoint, dunkin donuts pulled the ad in question, fearing a backlash or boycott of their products. (via the huffington post)
in conjunction with this keffiyeh kerfuffle, malkin was quoted as saying the following on her blog:

"fashion statements may seem insignificant, but when they lead to the mainstreaming of violence -- unintentionally or not -- they matter. ignorance is no longer an excuse."

upon hearing about said kerfuffle, i started thinking about all those hipster kids who wear actual keffiyeh scarves these days (or at least they did in recently past days...are they still popular?). do all of those hipster kids know what such scarves might represent or symbolize, to palestinians, or to other opposing camps? are they even aware of their country of origin? has the symbolism of the scarves to palestinians (whether intended to be incendiary or mererly culturally referential and benign) been lost on said hipster kids because they are ignorant of their deeper meaning or provenance, as they may just be focusing on the wearing of such to follow a trend or because they merely like the colors or the pattern on said scarves? or do those hipster kids just see them purely as a fashion item?
i'd venture to say that the same goes for a lot of items when they make the transition from one culture or country to another...many times, the original meaning or symbolism or source of a textile or garment is forgotten, ignored, or destroyed when such pieces make a transition from one culture to another. something is lost in the translation.
in reference to malkin's statement about fashion statements, is ignorance no longer an excuse when it comes to fashion and what we wear? are we, as a wearer of whatever, responsible for knowing the potential meanings or sources of all the things we choose to wear? is it even possible to track the meaning of everything we don?
do we have to take a stance when we wear something, or know the stances of others on said items, or at least be aware of their stances? or is it okay to just wear something "because you like it", or because it "looks good to you" (aka, appeals to your sense of aesthetics), even though it's significance might be different in the context of another culture? are we especially responsible for knowing the meaning of something if it's questionable or political in it's meaning?

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-what do you think of the notion of "trying too hard" when it comes to getting dressed? is such a statement simply subjective, a potentially pejorative judgement made by a critical outside observer? do some people actually factually "try too hard"?
but...is trying too hard a bad thing? can it be a REALLY GOOD THING when it comes to self-expression via dress? can the idea "trying too hard" perhaps imply a feeling of and love for the experimental?
is "trying too hard" hard for some to stomach because the idea trying implies risk, which some more conservative folks are loathe to toy with, out of fear of public ridicule (for starters)?
some of such is the subject of a recent post by disney roller girl...which was also expounded upon and linked to by the imitible susie of style bubble.

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also, relatedly, what's so wrong with the ugly? do you embrace the ugly, and find the declasse worthy of championing? can 'ugly' actually be 'beautiful'? (via kingdom of style) to reiterate the line of questioning queen michelle employs, when is ugly truly ugly? are there limits and strict definitions of beauty, of ugliness?
or consider this: is there any other statement that so clearly expresses the idea that the notion of beauty and style and aesthetics is exceedingly subjective and extremely personal?

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-what say you on the subject of bodysnarking? does the internet facilitate and perhaps make it "okay" culturally to comment negatively on the bodies of others, famous folks, or otherwise? what about the internet perpetuates this behavior? is it the inherent anonymity of the web?
are we all a little too concerned with what we look like, or what others look like? is this only getting more acute?
the last few months or year has seen what seems to me to be to be an explosive proliferation of street style/personal style/fashion blogs.
and, just in the past year or even past few months, there has also been a launch of a myriad of fashion-sharing sites. many of the fashion/style sharing sites have an element of rating (or rating systems)...i.e., users are encouraged not to simply celebrate, but to criticize.
snark is in...and the people seem to love it. reading it, participating in it. but is this good? does it ever go too far?
if we post a picture of ourselves on the internet, should we be prepared for and expect the comments that might ensue, both positive or negative in nature? do those comments matter in scheme of things? are they 'real'? do they hurt less or mean more because they are sourced via the internet?

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and the (sometimes not so) quick and dirty!
-heads up san francisco/bay area people: modern printmaking maven lotta jansdotter is putting on a free print party this coming saturday, june 7th from 5-8 pm at the craft gym, here in san francisco, to promote her new printmaking book, lotta prints, which was recently published by chronicle. lotta will be demo-ing some of the techniques she illustrates in the book, like rubber and potato stamping, and observers will be able to join in the fun and take said techniques for a spin themselves. the craft gym is at 1452 bush street (between van ness & polk). i heard there shall be drinks and snacks there as well. i'm going to try and make to this event if i can! why don't you, too?
-also for the san franciscans, particularly those into hats and millinery: local milliner de anna gibbons of brimming over millinery is offering hat-making classes/workshops through the summer and fall. see her site for more details on these classes.
-and one more for you SF'ers!: built by wendy san francisco is having a spring sample sale this coming weekend (june 6th and 7th) here in SF. more details here.
-the new issue of NEET magazine (june 2008) is out, on zee web. apparently there's an article in this new issue which has quotes from wardrobe_remix(ers) on the topic of ethics and fashion, culled at least partially from this discussion here in the wardrobe_remix discussion forums.
-in the month of may, sewing blog sew mama sew had a big old series of posts and projects that addressed important/useful sewing techniques, in honor of women's clothing month. check out the archive of said posts here.
-via fine little day, i stumbled upon a cool online design mag called blanket magazine. said mag (in their own words) "is a free PDF online magazine that is aimed at uncovering (excuse the pun!) art + design + photography from the talented people who create it". the most recent available issue is the 'recycled' issue. neat!
-decor8 has a round-up of indie textile designers that can be found on etsy. why not use the handiwork of one of them for your next sewing project?

(not so) random links

-apparently, it used to be so, so easy to hawk those luxury fashion goods, when the economy was riding high. times seemed to be good, money flowed so freely, and it seemed like everyone (and their financial status) felt pretty darn invincible. the rich were ever richer, and the less rich were willing to shell out the dough for the latest "it-bag" or the like in an attempt to aspire to the life or lifestyle of the aforementioned rich folk. it felt like it could never end...but it did. but the looming recession has started to pinch the wallets of multiple classes, and by extension, it's pinching the profits of manufacturers and retailers. consumer spending is down in general. (via the baltimore sun) some are asking, how will luxury brands, and we, the consumer, survive this downturn in the economy? (via slate) what will sell? what will we actually buy? the fashion industry is 'cautiously optimistic'. let's be honest: they almost have to tow that line, as of course, they don't want to project too much doom and gloom, lest they want to see the confidence of consumers falter even more...which would of course affect their profits...
in thinking about all this faltering economy stuff, i find myself seeing both a good and bad side to this potentially bad fiscal trend.
on the pro side: will constricted budgets force consumers at large to think more critically about the things they DO choose to buy? could it convince them of the value of recycling via thrifting and sustainably-made clothing and other related goods? is it possible that people will increasingly buy in a less trend-driven or frivolous manner, instead choosing to indulge in a little bit of delayed gratification, only purchasing that which seems to have a more classic bent, or a longer life-span in one's closet? will more folks turn to doing-it-themselves...and actually, will this DIY trend continue to be haute, or even more popular than it already seems to be?
on the con side: when the economy is weak, manufacturers and retailers may be less likely to take risks, less likely to take a chance on more innovative designers, lines, or their products. small businesses who aim to make original wearables may have a hard time staying afloat or finding capital to start or continue...all of which may make for less ease in finding and purchasing more experimental or innovative fashion, should a person or persons be interested in such styles.
can you see any other fashion-related pros or cons to a weakened economy, particularly if said weakening is sustained over a period of time?

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-fops and dandies (one of my fave fashion-related blogs, btw) made a little post a few days ago about how she makes living and looking stylish work whilst living in notoriously expensive new york city. in that missive, she referenced an article in the new york times about how other young and just-starting-out ny-ers do the same. i read both her post and the article with great interest, because boy oh boy, can i relate, having lived in NYC, and now SF (both VERY expensive locales with near insane costs-of-living). the husband and i have had to make a lot of "sacrifices" to live in both places as well, in order to afford other things and live the lifestyle we desire. yes, we have to forgo luxuries others might take for granted and it's not all perfect, but we make it work.
what about you? if you're an urban dweller living in an expensive city, how do you 'make do'? what 'cons' about living in a city or dealing with great expenses do you stomach in lieu of being able to enjoy the 'pros'? how do you ensure that you are able to afford certain luxuries ('luxuries' to be defined by you, of course)? do you pinch the pennies harder in one or many areas so you can spend with relative abandon in others? what are the ways in which you do this? how does this creative budgeting and creative living affect what you do end up adding to your wardrobe or how you dress/express yourself?

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-and sort of related to the last two: what about the notion of giving up all that stuff, all those clothes and whatevers, in order to pursue a life of voluntary simplicity? (via the new york times) sometimes, some say, all that stuff you own can really end up owning you. do you really NEED it all? do you really NEED a closet bursting with clothing, if you really only need or even wear a fraction of it? HONESTLY, do you feel more is more, or do you feel that is less more? can being free of THINGS make one actually feel more 'free'?
i love pretty things, i have to admit. i probably own too many things...but do try to sort through said things and aim to consciously stem my acquisitions, both with increasing regularity. but i am not perfect. to give it all up might prove a challenge for me, personally.
but...could YOU do it? could you give all your things up and live the simple life? do you ever get the urge to do so? do you know anyone who has? can you shed some light on how they make it work and they manage to maintain that almost ascetic level of simplicity in their life? what keeps them motivated?

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and just a few of the quick and dirty today...
-forget that they are being worn by celebs (really, who cares??)...check out this round-up of great leggings sewing patterns that was recently posted on the threadbanger blog.
-ranna of only shallow posted a link to a gallery of photos her fellow stylish finns as snapped at an event put on by finnish retailer stockmann that apparently featured/celebrated the work of some of finland's finest young fashion talent. i love the statement and sentiment of the sign the folks are all holding: 'this is me, who are you?'

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said statement kind of succinctly reminds me of the ethos and motivation of/behind why i started/why people post to wardrobe_remix, in a way, i must say! :)
p.s. i wish i could read finnish!
-altered couture magazine, a periodical all about altered and embellished wearables looks like it's worth a look. thanks to outsapop for the heads-up!