the quest for personal style: the angel is in the details

so, you've been teaching yourself to SEE, right? your eyes are opening, you're looking around, you're seeing patterns in the world, things that delight your eye and speak to your soul.

perhaps you're starting to or are keeping a sketchbook, a scrapbook, making a pile of delightful and inspiring scraps, or putting them on a board. perhaps you even made a bona fide inspiration or mood board.

chances are, your eyes (really, your mind!) are opening up and you're seeing that details really make the difference. the angel is in the details, really, not the devil.

details are truly what make things special, and different, and unique. anyone can own a pair of jeans, or a white button down oxford style shirt, but it's the quality or texture of the fabric, the neatness and deliberateness of the stitching, the little unique design features (pleats, piecing, pintucks, the shape slant of a pocket, a fancy button, the innovative shape of a leg or sleeve, whatever!) that make something stand out. and by extension, these details can help tell the story of your own unique personal style. they take something very utilitarian, our everyday clothing, and elevate it to another level. they enrich our adornments and by extension, our personal story or statement.

the special details that you honestly and soulfully choose and the manner in which you mix them together is likely to say something completely idiosyncratic about you...and that's the point.

i'll let you in on a little secret: the details are the fun part of fashion (and really, all of art and design!), and they are out there just waiting for you to notice them.

***

to illustrate, i show you these two lovely pairs of shoes i thrifted recently (and also posted about quite recently, here).

details, details, details

the white pair on the left had this amazing ruched triangular section on the toe, something very interesting and unique that set them apart from other shoes on the rack. had they been plain white pumps, i would have been more likely to pass them over. a little detail like that shows that the designer was thinking, experimenting, pushing, trying. it doesn't get up in your face, but it adds an extra edge. the same is suggested of you, if you notice, embrace, and wear these sorts of details, or any details of any kind that appeal to you. it shows you are LOOKING. you are also making unique, very personal choices, and being yourself.

***

as was suggested above, details also speak to the quality of an item...and in turn, speak to your inherent or growing intelligence and education on the subject of fashion, even if you don't intend to eventually become an expert. just knowing a *little* enriches you quantitatively and qualitatively, and actually makes lovely new connections between synapses in your brain! wow! totally cool.

pick up a book on fabric, sewing or fashion details from your local library, thrift store, or used/new bookstore, and page through. examine the pages on fabric, seaming, and the like. understand that some design and manufacturing processes take longer than others, some fabrics and pieces of clothing are harder to make, some are made of materials that take time to produce, and procure. all of these factors factor into the cost and quality of a garment, in the end. train yourself to recognize fabrics, and what feels good and what feels bad or cheap. chances are you know, inherently, with just a touch. use all of your senses.

just being aware of good quality of fabric and the extra time and processes that occasionally go into making higher-quality garments will earnestly assist you when combing the racks at the discount or mass-market shopping establishments, websites, or the thrift or secondhand stores. you can root out good, quality pieces that make an original statement about you...that show you are LOOKING and THINKING.

another example for illustrative purposes...

seams of red cord straight skirt

here, i've made a simple straight skirt...but inside, i've finished off each seam with hand-made bias tape. sure, i could have simply left the seams bare, allowing them to fray, or could have serged (overlocked) them for the sake of brevity or really, laziness, in order to have a skirt to wear. i take shortcuts like that sometimes myself, we all do.

but in this case, i took the extra time to find a coordinating tape to use as bias, cut the bias tape out by hand, and applied it to all the seams. i took the time and effort and sewed each seam and it's bias tape as carefully as possible, trying to stitch in the ditch so the stitches wouldn't show. i hemmed the skirt by hand, making sure not to prick too deeply or sew haphazardly so that the thread wouldn't show on the outside of the skirt. i paid attention to the details...and this attention pays off. this skirt will last because i took the time.

one of my professors at parsons, darcy meeker, always used to say, "the long way is the short way." in other words, do it right the first time, and you won't have to go back and do it again, or put it back together or buy a new one when it falls apart, when it wasn't done right in the first place (think of all the cheap mass market stuff that disintegrates within a few washings or wearings, UGH!). look for things that were done right the first time. things made with care. things that were made with and eye for and attention to detail.

this type of seam finish, or any other carefully worked seam finish suggests extra care, and hand-work on the part of a garment maker or manufacturer. seam finishes that appear to have been worked by hand, neatness or extra design details or lots of piecing suggest that a garment maker or manufacturer may be signs that you have a good quality piece on your hands...fine, detailed hand-work and beautiful hand-sewing is a huge part of true haute couture clothing, in fact.

i implore you to turn any potential garment you're thinking of buying inside out...the inside of a garment says almost as much as the outside. it could mean the difference between having a piece that lasts and continues to make a statement, and a trendy, cheaply-made piece that lasts barely one season.

good quality can be rooted out just about anywhere, if you have trained yourself to LOOK and THINK and notice the details.

san francisco gen-art event, sept. 20th: does street influence fashion, or vice versa?

i'm seriously thinking about attending this panel discussion sponsored by gen-art & epicenter:arts about one of my favorite areas of interest, and a big focus of this here blog, street fashion! and whatta ya know, it's in my 'hood! :) i'll report back, most surely. i already know how i feel, but it'd be interesting to hear what the alleged "experts" have to say on the matter.

*** "Popular Culture and Fashion-Does the street influence fashion or vice versa?"

PANELISTS Simon Ungless, Director of Graduate Fashion, Academy of Art Julie Chaiken, Fashion Designer, Chaiken Clothing Melissa Leventon, Curator and Author: “Artwear: Fashion and Anti-fashion” Cari Borja, Fashion Designer, PhD in Anthropology Allison Nelson, Fashion Designer, Redthreds

Wednesday, September 20 (please note date change!) 7:00 - 9:00pm

7:00pm: Reception 7:30 - 8:30pm: Panel 8:30 - 9:00pm: Q&A

W Hotel **Mezzanine Level** 181 Third Street San Francisco, CA

Please join Gen Art and Epicenter:Arts for the fourth in a series of thought provoking panel discussions focusing on the arts. In preparation for Fresh Faces in Fashion this September, we are pleased to present: "Popular Culture and Fashion-Does the street influence fashion or vice versa?"

This panel will discuss the influence and inter-dependency of "street" fashion on high fashion. Who is borrowing from whom? Is this exchange defined by the times or era? A panel of industry luminaries will discuss.

nyc.spring.summer.2007.picks.

diane von furstenburg: glad to see color hasn't disappeared completely this coming spring. *phew* i love that DVF has used what some (not ME! :)) might consider to be clashing colors (orange and fuchsia), and has also teamed a medium-scale floral print with what appears to be a supergraphic print. this appeals to my life-long-love-of-color side...i can never let it go, even if i have been feeling a recent obsession with grays and blacks of late.

same dress different buttons? i just love it. bright YELLOW seems to be the coming thing... i've always loved that gorgeous kelly green shade. DVF is clearly the master of easy dresses that suit *real* women...i would personally buy this in every color.

***

karen walker: bonnets! hah...*nudges dearbirthday* that's curious, for sure. also, i must say, the first model reminds me of melovescookies. again...curious! i also like the super popping colors, mixing with neutrals and the higher waists, though the latter looks awful on me personally. it's just nice to see this coming back after years of ridiculously low pants/skirts. also, note the tucking in of the shirt! something we haven't seen a while either (a different way of styling than what has been hot for many years).

***

marc by marc: marc jacobs was all about the 20s/30s look in both of his eponymous lines...all the drop-waists and such. i'm liking that silhouette, actually, it seems a bit fresh and could be open to a myriad of interpretations. leave it to marc to come up with at least one denim item i really love (that denim dress above)...he does it every season, of course. but generally i've not been feeling the last couple of seasons from marc by marc, as they don't suit my general aesthetic (especially the huge saggy man pants for fall/winter 2006, yuck!), but any of these pieces above could be mixed and layered and paired with my usual favorite bright colors for a fresh personal statement that diverts from this type of styling suggested above.

and hello, what a great garter stitch sweater! i'm all about the oversized knit gauges. :)

***

marc jacobs: i really like marc's main line...it's got that overall 20s/30s feel...but also feels really futuristic with the sculptural quality, and those holographic fabrications.

maybe "modern" fashion these days is somewhat about taking the old shapes, tweaking them, and experimenting with those new shapes using the latest new fabrications coming out of the textile world (some of which are very highly scientifically engineered and complicated)? it's one theory i've been tossing around in my little head for a while...

in the top photo, i'm all about that mix of super glamorous, shiny, holographic fabric in the top, with the dull, casual look of the fabric in the pants. and the sculptural shape of the pants is absolutely divine, with the side swooping up to reveal more leg. sooo good.

***

united bamboo: more dropped waists. more bubble shapes. nice, nice, nice.

***

jay mc carroll: yay, jay finally showed! seemed like a lot of the same themes as from his PR show a few years back... i really hope he is successful; i love his aesthetic sense completely, his use of traditional hand/needlework (quilting, piecing, knitting, crochet) not to mention his use of color.

***

erin fetherston: a romper! i'm all about rompers...i'd like to design some when my studio stuff finally arrives here in SF. this one by erin fetherston looks somewhat like one i designed for one of my classes at parsons earlier this year...more curiousness.

***

overall, there wasn't anything at NYC fashion week that bowled me over completely (except maybe some of the marc jacobs collection).

i am really looking forward to seeing what comes out of london this week, and later, milan (of COURSE)...show me something AMAZING, fashion world! i'm curious to see what eley kishimoto comes up with, for starters...

***

all photos: style.com